A New England Traveler’s Guide to Abu Dhabi

Abu Dhabi’s elaborate Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque. / Getty Images

The capital of the United Arab Emirates, Abu Dhabi has all the exuberance of a can-do city of tomorrow, while still retaining the customs and traditions that make it unique. Frequently described as Dubai’s more refined sibling, Abu Dhabi emphasizes the arts, architecture, and culture over superlatives like tallest/biggest/most expensive, and although it’s inarguably more conservative (many restaurants don’t serve alcohol, and LGBTQ+ rights are non-existent), it has some liberal traits (women participate in business and civic life at the highest levels, and no one looks askance at a short skirt or bikini). In other words, there’s a genuine commitment to embracing the best of the West while preserving the traditional way of life, and nowhere is that more apparent than in the incomparable and deeply ingrained Arab hospitality displayed everywhere from roadside restaurants to five-star hotels.

Creating vibrant sand souvenirs. / Getty Images

PLAY

One indication of Abu Dhabi’s ambition is the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, which rivals the Taj Mahal in grandeur. Like walking through a white marble dream of domes and minarets, it should be at the top of any visitor’s to-do list. In fact, Abu Dhabi boasts some of the world’s most cutting-edge architecture, with an outpost of the Louvre designed by Pritzker Architecture Prize winner Jean Nouvel and the long-awaited Frank Gehry–designed satellite of the Guggenheim slated to open this year. Nearby, the Abrahamic Family House is an impressive testament to Abu Dhabi’s commitment to peaceful coexistence: Comprised of a mosque, a church, and a synagogue, it was created by the same Ghanaian-British architect who designed DC’s National Museum of African American History & Culture. For a taste of historical Abu Dhabi, Qasr Al Hosn plaza features not only the city’s oldest stone building (a royal fortress), but also a vibrant contemporary dance, theater, and visual arts complex where locals stroll at night and gather at chic cafés. Saadiyat Island boasts some of the most beautiful beaches in the Persian Gulf, with high-end hotels, chic beach clubs, golf courses, and attractions (including a campus of Boston’s own Berklee College of Music). To experience what Abu Dhabi was like before its modern transformation, spend a day in the desert at the Al Ain Oasis, a UNESCO World Heritage site that will transport you to the days of The Arabian Nights.

The historical Qasr Al Hosn plaza. / Getty Images

EAT

Located in Qasr Al Hosn, the sleek, Michelin-starred Erth serves contemporary takes on Arabic classics, from spiced quail and braised lamb to mushrooms with Arabic spices and fermented pomegranate molasses. Inside the massive Mandarin Oriental on the waterfront, renowned chef Ross Shonhan’s Strawfire takes Japanese cuisine to new heights with a culinary technique called warayaki, in which everything is cooked over straw-fired flames. As theatrical as Benihana, it’s one of countless international eateries in the city, although Indian and Lebanese cuisine are especially popular (we recommend Punjab Grill and Beirut Sur Mer, respectively). For anyone feeling homesick, there are countless “American” restaurants, including an eatery from Boston’s own Todd English at the airport.

Abu Dhabi’s glittering Etihad Towers. / Getty Images

SHOP

In the UAE, shopping malls are next level, and the designer boutiques and specialty shops at the Abu Dhabi Mall, the Galleria Al Maryah Island, and the Avenue at Etihad Towers (to name only three) run the gamut from A to Z, from Abdul Rashid Perfumes to the luxury Australian brand Zimmermann. For more traditional goods, the Souk at Qaryat Al Beri has water taxis to ferry shoppers around the two-story Venetian-inspired Arabic marketplace adjoining the Shangri-La Hotel.

A view of the Rixos Premium Saadiyat Island. / Jonathan Soroff

STAY

The all-inclusive luxury Turkish hotel chain Rixos has two locations in Abu Dhabi: The Rixos Marina Abu Dhabi is comprised of two towers connected by a tall arch, with commanding views of downtown, the Corniche seaside strip, and the royal palace. The Rixos Premium Saadiyat Island is near the museums, with a chic full-service beach club and pleasant touches like coffee in the lobby lounge and ice cream by the swimming pool.

Business class on Etihad Airways / Courtesy

GETTING THERE

Etihad Airways operates daily nonstop service between Logan and Zayed International Airport, and business class is worth the splurge thanks to superb service, food on request, fine wines and spirits, and luxurious lay-flat seats.